
The 120th Nagano Ebisu-ko Fireworks Festival — a rare November fireworks festival in Japan
One of Japan's rare big displays in late autumn: the Ebisuko Fireworks, closing rite of the November fair season since 1899, draws roughly 400,000 people on November 23 (holiday Monday) from 18:00 along the Sai River - about 10,000 shells. Its nickname 'shusse enka' ('career-making fireworks') comes from an era when only seasoned pyrotechnicians were invited to fire. Fair-season stalls line the temple-approach streets, and the night reads as the start of winter in Nagano.
Ebisuko is the November rite for prosperity in commerce; in Nagano it centers on the Nishinomiya shrine's festival (eve-of-Ebisu on November 19, main rite the 20th) and the street market by its approach. The fireworks fall on the holiday closing the season, and many visitors fold in a Zenkoji temple visit. The river site is about 30 minutes on foot from JR Nagano Station's east exit; with the show ending by 19:30, dinner near the station fits easily afterward. The official site covers paid viewing seats and an official bus tour. Late-November Nagano nights can drop near freezing - proper gloves and hats are essentials - and staggering your exit beats the station-bound crush. The fair stalls serve hot drinks - a small comfort against the cold.